Gasoline Engine Tips

I am going to cover the points that I use when installing a Gasoline Engine to try to avoid ingiton problems.

1. I try to have a mimumum of 8 inches between the Radio system and the engine, engine kill switch and any of the ignition components including the ignition switch, battery, timimg/ignition box. I had a situation a couple of weeks ago where we had ingition interference because the lead wire from the ignition power switch was laying on the receiver battery. Moving the battery back into the fuselage eliminated the problem.

2. Use only nyrod (nylon pushrod) for the throttle rod. Anything metalic (or conductive) will carry RF noise to the throttle servo and hence to the radio itself.

3. Be sure that all connectors and ground wiring are secure and not frayed. Be sure that you are using a resistor plug in the engine.

4. Range check the radio system with the engine off and determine the actual distance that you have control of the airplane. Be sure that this meets the manufactures guideline for range. Then repeat the check with the engine running at all speeds. You do have an assistant properly holding the airplane while starting and testing don't you?    If the distance is reduced by more than 10% then there is a problem that needs resolving before flying the airplane.

5. Fuel tank position is of minimal concern since the Walbro carburator will pump the fuel regardless of tank location. Just be sure that the tank is securely mounted and the fuel line connections are secure as gasoline is much more volatile than Glow fuel.

6. Always have a means of killing the engine by turning off the power to the ingition system or grounding the mag. Be sure that your helper knows where the kill switch is located. Set up the radio so that you can kill the engine with a kill switch or the throttle trim.

7. I am compelled to get on my soapbox at this time regarding muffling your engine...
There are many effective mufflers available for the gasoline engines. The mufflers that come with the Zenoah engine are pretty effective and Slimline Pitts style and Bisson Pitts and Side mount mufflers are good. The exaust diverters provided by most of the engine manufactures are just that and are not mufflers at all. If we can afford to spend $400.00 or more for an engine then we can afford to spend another $75.00 to $100.00 for better noise control.   If we don't we will be risking losing our flying field. I have obtained several very effective mufflers from lawn mower shops by observing the mufflers on leaf blowers and weedeaters and finding ones that fit or can be adapted by making a simple aluminum adapter plate to match the bolt patterns.

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Additional comments (James McGuiness)

One point on range checking. I can not speak for all Futaba radios, but the 9C specifically states not to operate the radio with the antenna fully stored. They warn that this may cause damage to the radio. You should range check your futaba 9c with the antenna raised one section.

Additional comments (Mark Fuess)

There are several people within the club which happen have machine tools. I have no doubt that one of us can make an adapter to fit a suitable muffler on your engine if this endevour is too big or complex for you.

Additional comments (Gary Booth)

James, I learned from a radio guy a few years ago that all transmitters can have a failure of the output transistor if the radio is operated for a period of time with the antenna collapsed. It changes the load on the transistor and causes it to overheat , we have all been lucky due it usually takes a while to cause the damage, but being warned I always try to start my engine with at least one section extended for saftey.